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All great suits start with the choice of cloth. Once your tailor has established what your suit and bespoke shirts will be for, they will talk you through the range of different cloths available, as the type of cloth will determine what types of cut and detailing will and won’t work and what sort of bespoke shirt you will want later.
Choosing the right cloth is all about accentuating the right parts of your appearance. For instance, if you are on the short side, it’s best to choose a cloth that accentuates length and avoid bolder patterns that can look overpowering on smaller gentlemen. Similarly, you should avoid plain, flat cloths and opt for those with some texture to create a feeling of depth. Stripes are perfect for this as they naturally accentuate length. This doesn’t have to mean a pinstripe suit, as there are herringbone designs or shadow stripes that have a similar effect without making the vertical stripes quite so obvious.
If you’re a large gentlemen then you should avoid light coloured fabrics in both your suit and bespoke shirts because they will emphasise bulk! Although you don’t necessarily have to avoid tweeds and casual colours altogether, darker cloths are generally the way to go here. Similarly, the finer patterns that complement smaller builds will tend to look messy on larger ones, so a larger, bolder pattern would be better. A good rule of thumb is that the larger your frame, the bigger the pattern you should choose.
Even if you just want a plain suit, there are plenty of interesting weaves which will help add the right texture, so don’t be afraid to ask your tailor about all the different options available. This is particularly important when it comes to the colour of the cloth, as there are all sorts of subtleties to the way people perceive the colours of suits and bespoke shirts that an expert will be able to advise you on. For instance, research has shown that people associate a charcoal grey pin stripe suit with experience and expertise, which makes it a good choice if you’re planning on wearing your suit to job interviews. On the other hand, navy blue tends to have a more youthful, energetic feel to it, so it could be very effective for older gentlemen who need to engage with a younger audience.
A great suit isn’t just something you wear to work. When you wear a top-quality suit and made to measure shirt that has been designed for you, you don’t just look great, you feel great too, and it’s reflected in everything you do.
write by martinez